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Författare Ämne: nibe 360 help for scotland  (läst 2462 gånger)

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jamie mackenzie

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jamie mackenzie
nibe 360 help for scotland
« skrivet: 27 november 2016, 15:50:14 »
Hello, please excuse the English but i found this forum when search for help with nibe products. I have recently moved into a new house built on swedish design with a nibe 360p fighter. i have it running ok but the only thing i notice is the hot water goes up to 55c then drops to about 40  pretty quickly. i have had houses which keep hot water all day without having to re heat until the evening. currently the temp over here is around 1-4c droping to maybe -3c at night. i am on curve 5 and although the house is always warm, it seems that the compressor is always going to keep the water hot. this is without the immersion heater kicking in for the water. if anyone could help or advise this would be grate

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« Svar #1 skrivet: 27 november 2016, 16:26:38 »
Hi!
The function of 360 is that the boiler heats both hot water and water to the heating system in one vessel.
There is a shunt for supplying the heat system with right temperature on the flow.

If you have underfloor heating, you should open up the thermostats to maximum.
Then regulate indoor temperature with the curve.
If the termostats regulates the temperature, the load on the boiler and heat pump will variate and that can result in variating temperature on the boiler.

Good that you don't use the immersion heater if it's not necessary.  tummenupp
The compressor is on 2 kW and will go all the time in the winter, when it's getting colder you have to turn on the immersion heater.
« Senast ändrad: 27 november 2016, 16:34:43 av Carl N »
Huset: NIBE 1215-5, 120 m aktivt borrdjup, 127 m2 boyta 53 m2 biyta, suterräng byggt 1970. Tidigare 2,5 kbm olja/år, huset tilläggsisolerat i samband med VP-installationen. FST34+1 som frikyla.
Ca 5500 kWh i drivenergi för VP-drift, ca 5500 kWh HH-el + komfortgolvvärme i snitt/år.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fritidshuset, NIBE 1245-8, 160 m aktivt borrdjup, ca 150 m2 boarea + en liten källare från 1912.

jamie mackenzie

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jamie mackenzie
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« Svar #2 skrivet: 27 november 2016, 16:51:59 »
Thanks for that, as my flow water is about 27c to 33c on the cold days is it better to have that higher and then the heat loss over the hot water will be slower. we do have gas installed as this is in replacement of the electric immersion heater so that kicks in a lot but is a lot cheaper than electric in the uk.


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« Svar #3 skrivet: 27 november 2016, 17:50:14 »
To get an overview of the system docking with a gas boiler this document might be of interest: http://www.nibe.se/nibedocuments/9732/411677-6.pdf
See 2nd chapter in English and section "Gas boiler". If the flow water temperature is about 30 °C I guess the house has underfloor heating? For houses that meet the Swedish requirements on insulation it's normally said that the compressor in 360P can supply the house with heating and hot water (modest use för showers etc.) with an outdoor temperature of about 6 °C or higher. If it's colder it needs the immersion heater or docking boiler.
1½-planshus byggt i slutet av 90-talet. 169 kvm + fristående garage 35 kvm. Kryp-/balkgrund numera tätad och avfuktare DS15 inkopplad. Vattenburet ettrörssystem med radiatorer i fyra slingor. Nibe 310P tillverkad 1997. Service: Kompressorbyte 3 ggr samt byte förångare, expansionsventil, torkmedel, pressostat, elkondensatorer, cirkulationspump, säkerhetsventil och ny kraftigare fläkt.

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« Svar #4 skrivet: 27 november 2016, 17:52:03 »
If it's OK temperature indoor, you should not have higher flow temperature.
The best way to level out the load on the heat pump is to not let the thermostats open/close all the time.
When a thermostat opens, a lot of cold water returns to the boiler and the shunt is forced to open quickly to compensate for temperature fall.
Better to have a lower curve and an even flow.
Have you activated the gas heater?
Huset: NIBE 1215-5, 120 m aktivt borrdjup, 127 m2 boyta 53 m2 biyta, suterräng byggt 1970. Tidigare 2,5 kbm olja/år, huset tilläggsisolerat i samband med VP-installationen. FST34+1 som frikyla.
Ca 5500 kWh i drivenergi för VP-drift, ca 5500 kWh HH-el + komfortgolvvärme i snitt/år.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fritidshuset, NIBE 1245-8, 160 m aktivt borrdjup, ca 150 m2 boarea + en liten källare från 1912.

jamie mackenzie

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jamie mackenzie
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« Svar #5 skrivet: 27 november 2016, 17:58:31 »
Thanks carl that makes sense with the thermostats, yes the gas is running it takes about 5 mins to get the water back up to temp and is very handy if you want to give the kids a bath then have a shower yourself straight away. i forgot to say i have underfloor heating which is in concrete and up stair radiators which i have all of them fully open, i will tonight put all the underfloor heating thermostats to full  and see how it goes.

jamie mackenzie

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jamie mackenzie
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« Svar #6 skrivet: 30 november 2016, 13:42:55 »
thanks for your help everyone , i have noticed a change since opening up all the thermostats, i  also have upstairs radiators what should the valves be open to fully or half way.

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« Svar #7 skrivet: 30 november 2016, 22:09:25 »
If indoor temperature upstairs is OK with fully opened thermostats, than do it.
But these thermostats is not on/off (as underfloor thermostats) som they aren't as critical for balancing the load on the compressor.
Huset: NIBE 1215-5, 120 m aktivt borrdjup, 127 m2 boyta 53 m2 biyta, suterräng byggt 1970. Tidigare 2,5 kbm olja/år, huset tilläggsisolerat i samband med VP-installationen. FST34+1 som frikyla.
Ca 5500 kWh i drivenergi för VP-drift, ca 5500 kWh HH-el + komfortgolvvärme i snitt/år.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fritidshuset, NIBE 1245-8, 160 m aktivt borrdjup, ca 150 m2 boarea + en liten källare från 1912.

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