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Författare Ämne: IVT 490 golv är kalt!  (läst 3736 gÃ¥nger)

0 medlemmar och 1 gäst tittar på detta ämne.

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IVT 490 golv är kalt!
« skrivet: 23 november 2015, 22:25:07 »
Hej,

Hoppas det gå bra med engelska men gärna, svara på svenska.

Came home today and the house was at +14 C, and its -10 out. We have a 7 year old IVT 490 med golv värme.
The floor was ice cold BUT there is warm water at the tap and at the shower, plus the hot water tank is very hot.
A few troubleshooting things i've done after reading the manual and this forum.
I've checked the överhettningsskydd, and its been out a few times the last week but was ok today.
I let air out of the system.
The diodelampan on the elpanel is green.
I turned off the unit for 20 minutes and then back on again.
No lights on the main panel come on at all which worries me a bit.
I've added water back into the system so the manometer is at 0.75bar.
The air filter has been recently cleaned.
The Shuntventil is all the way out.
I took out the main screw on the circulation pump and some really dark water came out first, then a bunch of clear water. It didn't top after 1 min so i put the screw back in.

The temperature values are:
GT1 18.4  (32.5)
GT2 -8 (this is accurate, i checked a bunch of times)
GT3:1   71
GT3:2   86.8
GT3:3   83.1
GT6      23.8

After reading a bunch of posts here, i've tried mostly everything I think.
I have not taken off the electrical panel (yet).
I'm going to guess the circulation pump is broken but i really don't know how to check that.
What temp should the compressor (GT6) be at?


Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

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« Svar #1 skrivet: 24 november 2015, 07:47:34 »
Good troubleshooting.  tummenupp
You're probably right about the circulation pump.
And there's one thing more, the temperature in the tank is to high.

But to check the cirkulation pump you must (again?) open the big screw on the circulation pump and check if the axle is rotating?
There's a slot on the axle where you can help the pump start rotating with a screwdriver.

Then probably the contactors for the heating cartridge is broken and don't turn off the power, this is the reason that the thermal protection trips.
You need to replace these contactors.
When the tank temperature is to high, the compressorn stops, thats the reason for the low temperature at GT6, usually this is higher when the compressor is turned on.
Huset: NIBE 1215-5, 120 m aktivt borrdjup, 127 m2 boyta 53 m2 biyta, suterräng byggt 1970. Tidigare 2,5 kbm olja/år, huset tilläggsisolerat i samband med VP-installationen. FST34+1 som frikyla.
Ca 5500 kWh i drivenergi för VP-drift, ca 5500 kWh HH-el + komfortgolvvärme i snitt/år.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fritidshuset, NIBE 1245-8, 160 m aktivt borrdjup, ca 150 m2 boarea + en liten källare från 1912.

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« Svar #2 skrivet: 24 november 2015, 09:09:49 »
Tack för snabb svar!!

Another few points i forgot to add,
- there have been NO ALARMS
- my curve is at 4.0 and i have not changed it.

i'll check the circulation pump tonight.
if i put the screw driver in the hole and the pump starts to turn, is it going to grab the screwdriver and damage the pump? what is the RPM on such a pump?
are the contacts for the heating cartridge behind the elpanel?

and something i did this morning before leave was to manually open the shuntvalve so that it was in the mostly warm / little bit cold position.
i noticed the temp at the compressor increased but not sure if that is good AND not sure if that will help heat the golve värme?

again, thanks for the reply!

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« Svar #3 skrivet: 24 november 2015, 17:06:16 »
Hi!
Tripping of the thermal protection don't trigger any alarm.
I don't know the revolution speed for the pump, but I don't think it's gonna harm the pump to start it with a screwdeiver.
The contacts for heating cartridge is behind the electric panel, but ask for service to replace them if you're uncertain how to do.

I think you need to get the pump working to get the floor warm.
Huset: NIBE 1215-5, 120 m aktivt borrdjup, 127 m2 boyta 53 m2 biyta, suterräng byggt 1970. Tidigare 2,5 kbm olja/år, huset tilläggsisolerat i samband med VP-installationen. FST34+1 som frikyla.
Ca 5500 kWh i drivenergi för VP-drift, ca 5500 kWh HH-el + komfortgolvvärme i snitt/år.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fritidshuset, NIBE 1245-8, 160 m aktivt borrdjup, ca 150 m2 boarea + en liten källare från 1912.

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« Svar #4 skrivet: 24 november 2015, 19:49:43 »
Hej igen,

Thanks for the info Carl!
As mentioned, before I left this morning I had turned in the Shuntmotor so that it was mostly red and a little blue, and now when I came home the floor everywhere was nice and warm!!

I have yet to check the circulation pump, BUT wouldn't this mean that its actually working and maybe the problem is the Shuntmotor?

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« Svar #5 skrivet: 24 november 2015, 21:54:55 »
OK I misunderstood you, I thought that the shunt already was fully open.
But you meant that the shunt wheel was pulled out (in auto mode)?
In that case you're right about that the shunt is probably broken, normally the shunt will regulate the temperature to the setpoint -+ 1 or 2 °C.
And you don't have to open the screw on the pump, but still you need to do something about the contacts to the heating cartridge.
Huset: NIBE 1215-5, 120 m aktivt borrdjup, 127 m2 boyta 53 m2 biyta, suterräng byggt 1970. Tidigare 2,5 kbm olja/år, huset tilläggsisolerat i samband med VP-installationen. FST34+1 som frikyla.
Ca 5500 kWh i drivenergi för VP-drift, ca 5500 kWh HH-el + komfortgolvvärme i snitt/år.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fritidshuset, NIBE 1245-8, 160 m aktivt borrdjup, ca 150 m2 boarea + en liten källare från 1912.

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« Svar #6 skrivet: 25 november 2015, 13:15:32 »
looks like were are getting to the bottom of this!
thanks so much for your help Carl, awesome!!

and yes, the shunt was pulled out earlier (in automode i assume) and nothing was happening.
but when i pushed it in and turned it a bit (manual mode i assume), then after a bunch of hours the floor was warmer.
maybe a solenoid is stuck or similar. not even sure if it has a solenoid. or maybe it doesn't get a signal.
will look at the electrical panel tonight too.

replacing a shuntmotor should be doable right?
i used to be a service technician. Will have a look on the internet for instructions.

thanks again!!

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« Svar #7 skrivet: 25 november 2015, 22:22:39 »
It's not unusually that the shunt valve motor breaks, so I think that's the case.
And that's not so difficult to replace, you don't have to replace the whole valve, only the motor.


Huset: NIBE 1215-5, 120 m aktivt borrdjup, 127 m2 boyta 53 m2 biyta, suterräng byggt 1970. Tidigare 2,5 kbm olja/år, huset tilläggsisolerat i samband med VP-installationen. FST34+1 som frikyla.
Ca 5500 kWh i drivenergi för VP-drift, ca 5500 kWh HH-el + komfortgolvvärme i snitt/år.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fritidshuset, NIBE 1245-8, 160 m aktivt borrdjup, ca 150 m2 boarea + en liten källare från 1912.

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« Svar #8 skrivet: 26 november 2015, 09:34:43 »
Hi

The shunt is known to be troublesome with IVT 490/495 and it usually shows here at the forum in the autumn when the heating sesaong kicks in. Usually there is a question where there are either no heat on the heating circuit or insufficient hot water and to warm indoors.
"Hardware: the parts of a computer that can be kicked." - Jeff Pesis

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« Svar #9 skrivet: 26 november 2015, 12:51:50 »
Thanks for all the answers!!

Is it a bad thing that I have the Shuntmotor pushed in now (in manual mode) until I get a replacement?
Will there be any side effects or a higher cost in energy?

I noticed the temperature at GT6 is 83 degrees C. What temp should GT6 be at?

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« Svar #10 skrivet: 26 november 2015, 15:59:06 »
GT6 is hot gas temperature just after the compressor. It should be around 80 °C if the compressor is working as it should. It´s a normal value.
1½-planshus byggt i slutet av 90-talet. 169 kvm + fristående garage 35 kvm. Kryp-/balkgrund numera tätad och avfuktare DS15 inkopplad. Vattenburet ettrörssystem med radiatorer i fyra slingor. Nibe 310P tillverkad 1997. Service: Kompressorbyte 3 ggr samt byte förångare, expansionsventil, torkmedel, pressostat, elkondensatorer, cirkulationspump, säkerhetsventil och ny kraftigare fläkt.

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« Svar #11 skrivet: 29 november 2015, 09:25:21 »
GT3 värdena ser ut att vara mycket höga ! Beror det på reläet som har bränt ihop ?
Stockholm,Byggår 2008,1.5 pl,84 m2 nere, tot 161 m2 ,värmeslang i cementplattan (pålad) Garage 35 m2
IVT490 FLVP (inst Dec 2008) Daikin Caldo XRH30 (inst Dec 2019)
2010: 15439kwh (total förbr)Ö-våning ej isolerad
2011: 11777kwh (t.f) Ö-våning isolerad
2012: 12049kwh (t.f)
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2017: 13424kwh (t.f) 700 w Byggfläkt inkopplad i garaget
2018: 15182kwh (t.f)
2019: 15752kwh (t.f)
2020: 12472kwh (t.f) LLVP mont i garaget Augusti + Braskamin i huset (600 kg täljsten)
2021: 13699kwh (t.f) Har haft +20 gr i garaget och eldat mindre .
2022: 12249kwh (t.f) Eldat som en tokig , 20gr i garaget .
2023: 11806kwh (t.f)

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